Eoin and Ted invited me to join them on "Premiere Corvee". A semi-bolted multi pitch route just below the Brevent top station. I was tired from our Pelvoux experience but they suggested to start at 9.30 AM in Chamonix I couldn't resist!
We took the cable car and after 20 min of walking DOWN! we reached the base of the route. So completely different than last week in the Ecrins area.... and even better: Eoin was our rope gun for the day. Premiere Corvee is rated 7a/6c/6c/6c with finish at the top of the Brevent.
The first pitch was really hard 7a on slab and very tiny crimps.... some bolts, but I would say 6c+ obligatoir between the bolts... Eoin did a great job and Ted and I had a great time on top rope... The second pitch is a very steep dihedral with good holds and after 10 meters a bit freaky traverse to the left out of the dihedral... pitch 3 was a very cool hand/fist/off width crack (slightly overhanging), really nice! The 4th and final pitch was kind of difficult hand crack with a roof half way.
On tuesday I climbed with Bertho the Aig. Purtscheller S-ridge. The day before we walked in from Le Tour (cable car) to Albert 1er hut and the col de la tour superior to the trient hut in Zwitserland. Some very interesting hours in one or more thunderstorms.... next morning was good for the short but really cool climb on the south ridge of the Aig. Purtscheller.
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