Sunday, January 16, 2022

Cogne - Cold Couloir Integrale

 

Nice week of ice climbing in Cogne with Bernd. It was generally cold (around -13 degrees when we started). Not so much climbers anymore, as the week before we assume. Although, one day we wanted to climb Repentance, but one rope team arrived 20 minutes before us. So we decided to go to Monday Money first, but when we rapped down again 4 other rope teams were climbing on the same route, pretty weired.

Other cool routes we climbed were Candelabro de Coyote, Chandelle Levure and Tuborg. Especially Tuborg will keep in our mind, I climbed that route 5 or 6 times before but it had never been that steep and thin. Furthermore, the ice had a lot of tension and the pillar had not been worked well by other parties. I really had to work hard to climb this pitch.

Last day we climbed the Cold Couloir all the way to the top. Long day, with deep snow in the upper part. We had planned to be on the summit around 15.00h but it was finally 17.00h. The descent got a kind of deception. Around 19.00h we reached the area of the waterfalls close to Lillaz. We could see the village and the parking lot but we could nog exactly locate how to get down. Several steep slopes down climbing leading into dead ends, climbing back up again finally let us decide to call for assistance. We are very grateful for the help from the 2 guides and also the staff in the valley.

 

 

Steep pitch of Tuborg, difficult climbing this year

 

Tuborg upper part

Chandelle Levure, lower part

Chandelle Levure, upper part


Lower part of Candelabro del Coyote

On Candelabro del Coyote, we got really wet.



Last pitch of Monday Money




First pitch of the Cold Couloir, first part thin


Second pitch, really nice

5th pitch


6/7pitch

upper part, last part of ice

deep snow for several hundreds of meters


 

 Summit and views to Cogne and Epinel