Friday, February 2, 2018

Late kick off ice climbing season

Two weeks ago we cancelled our trip to the Alps due to the enormous amounts of snow predicted in Chamonix, Northern Zwitserland and also Italian Alps.

Last week we got our second attempt, Jeroen and I went to Cogne for some ice climbing, it was a pretty good start of the season:

Day 1: Lau Bij (WI5/5+) and Loie (WI 3/40).

The first pitch of Lau Bij is much thinner than last years. It made it actually more fun to climb. The second traverse pitch is always impressive. After rappelling we climbed it for a second time. Thereafter we went a bit higher for climbing the single pitch waterfall of Loie.



 Lau Bij, Jeroen climbing pitch 1


 me on the traverse in pitch 2


 exit pitch 2



 Loie



Day 2: Diretissima de Patri (WI 5+) and Patri de Droites (WI 4)

The diretissima doesn't always build up. As far as I know last time it was climbable in 2013/2014. One of the ice routes I still had not climbed in Cogne. It was a great experience, with a nice boulder move from the ice ledge in the rock to the start of pillar. After rappelling we also climbed Patri right hand variation.


 Diretissima to the left and Patri de Droite





 nice climbing on the diretissima



 Jeroen on the right hand Patri



Always fun!


Day 3: Repentance Super (WI 6).
Two years ago I climbed Repentance for the first time (with Bernd). Repentance is comparable with for example Rübezahl in Kandersteg, steep, well structured, sometimes overhanging sculptures of cauliflowers, pillars, balconies.... impressive. I climbed the steep part in four short pitches. In my opinion the top pillar is currently not very difficult. I found the first part more technical and demanding due to the sometimes very steep and thin ice structures. But I loved it. Like two years ago I leadclimbed all the steep pitches. Great experience!
We also saw the big vulture flying around!!!!



 start of pitch 1 Repentance Super


 
crusing up...





 start of pitch 2


steep crux of pitch 3



 start of pitch 4 the pillar


 
rappelling

 sunset on repentance