Thursday, June 22, 2017

Finally: Fegefeuer!

After my failed attempt on Fegefeuer a few weeks ago I went back to the Eifel last tuesday. It was hot, but during the day there is enough shade in Ettringen when you are on the right place at the right time.
We started early in the morning at the left part of sector "Kühlschrank", and even then it wasn't particularly cool... After climbing "training for Utah" where I flew off totally unexpected we went for climbing Aucune Plaquette. Eoin onsighted that route!

After that we went to the right part of sector "Kühlschrank", and in the shade it was nice climbing! We climbed "Hulk", VII+, the bulge halfway is pretty tough for the grade but really nice route!

We went to the "hell", we expected sun but it was 13.00 PM or so and the route "Fegefeuer" was in the shade, and again: Eoin onsighted that route (steep fingercrack, UIAA VIII). This time with a lot of motivation from the guys below I managed to pass the crux above the small roof and I went straight to the top!  HAPPY!

Last route we tried was "Seepferdchen", beautiful route, UIAA VIII+.... the lower part was pretty good but the last 5 meters with ringlocks and very bad foot holds is hard! We'll be back!


Eoin at the boulder start of Aucun Plaqette





Eoin in the crux move of Hulk...



 start of Fegefeuer...











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