Finally: Fegefeuer!

After my failed attempt on Fegefeuer a few weeks ago I went back to the Eifel last tuesday. It was hot, but during the day there is enough shade in Ettringen when you are on the right place at the right time.
We started early in the morning at the left part of sector "Kühlschrank", and even then it wasn't particularly cool... After climbing "training for Utah" where I flew off totally unexpected we went for climbing Aucune Plaquette. Eoin onsighted that route!

After that we went to the right part of sector "Kühlschrank", and in the shade it was nice climbing! We climbed "Hulk", VII+, the bulge halfway is pretty tough for the grade but really nice route!

We went to the "hell", we expected sun but it was 13.00 PM or so and the route "Fegefeuer" was in the shade, and again: Eoin onsighted that route (steep fingercrack, UIAA VIII). This time with a lot of motivation from the guys below I managed to pass the crux above the small roof and I went straight to the top!  HAPPY!

Last route we tried was "Seepferdchen", beautiful route, UIAA VIII+.... the lower part was pretty good but the last 5 meters with ringlocks and very bad foot holds is hard! We'll be back!


Eoin at the boulder start of Aucun Plaqette

Eoin in the crux move of Hulk...

 start of Fegefeuer...

Ettringen

I have been a few times to Ettringen... as usual, the more you climb the better the climbing...

A few weeks ago I finally climbed Oger, VIII- in the Finsterlay. Great route with a tough handjam start and a difficult fist jam upper part - especially if you have small hands like I do. With the heavy no.4 cams I managed to climb it free! Great! As a warm-up I climbed Feuertaufe VII+ clean and readpoint. Also very nice!!!


Last week I almost send Fegefeuer, VIII-, great fingercrack in the "hell". I slipped in the crux, it was very wet after some rain. Next time I will send it for sure!

Yesterday we tried different new routes. I onsighted a few of them:

"training for Utah", V-, sector Kühlschrank
"Aucune Plaquette", VII, great handjam in sector Kühlschrank
"Gash", VII, cool short fingercrack at Dürener Wand

"Mettwürstchen", VII+, I flew out just 2 metres below the belay, great long route at the Schiffsbug
"Mayflower", VIII-, hard handcrack at the amphiteatre, well-known route in Ettringen, pretty tough though!

 Training for Utah, unfortunately very short...

 Gash, cool ringlocks and laybacking...

 Oger, VIII-, Finsterlay, best crack climbing sector evereverever...

 Fegefeuer, VIII-, in the hell, good as hell, yeah....

Aucun Plaqette, VII, great climbing, Kühlschrank...

Mettwürstchen, VII+, at the Schiffsbug.