Ice climbing Cogne

Last week I have been to Cogne for some ice climbing. Even here- one of the best ice climbing spots in de Alps - it was obviously not the best ice climbing season. Classic waterfalls like Stella Artice and Tuborg in the Valleile are not formed! It's really dry. When we arrived there were a few centimeters of snow in the valley. More ice on the pathes than snow.

Rosella - the owner of our hostel - told us that there was only snow in november.

On wednesday we climbed Candelabro Coyote (WI4/4+). The first pitch was thin at times and some cauliflowers. The second pitch is the steep pillar. That was difficult climbing and protection. It felt a bit overhanging, hard for the grade, I would say at the moment WI 5+. But cool!

The next pillar Bernd climbed in the sun. A lot of fresh ice, not so easy. We catched the sun up there and we really enjoyed! We did not climb the final easy pitches WI 2 or something... We rappelled down, had some tea and traversed to the Chandelle Levure. We climbed the lower part. The final pitch is still not in condition... this was my third time at the Levure ice fall and every time the final pitch wasn't climbable. We rapped down and went to Cogne for the Cappuccino.

On thursday we went up to climb Lau Bij. This waterfall is one of the best climbs in Cogne. A long first pitch (50m) brings you to the start of the airy and technical traverse. Completley different climbing than the steep overhanging pillar on the Coyote the day before. We rappelled down. We decided to stop for today. Next day we wanted to go to Repentance and Monday Money. In the evening it started snowing. Next morning we had 25cm of snow and a lot of wind.

 Coyote pitch 1 and 2

Early morning, it was cold, -12 or something...

 Coyote final pitch in the sun!

Cappuccino in Cogne, great!

 Lau Bij

Lau Bij, upper part