Barre des Ecrins, 4102m, south face

After the succes on Mont Blanc south side Andreas joined me for another week of adventure. The forecast was still very good. I suggested to go the Mont Blanc south side again: Peuterey Integrale. But first I needed two more restdays and Andreas had to acclimatize a bit. So we spent two nights at the Grand Saint Bernard col at 2500m.

On tuesday we went down to Courmayeur and spent a night at the campground in the Val Veny. It was really hot, 34 degrees in the valley. Next afternoon we went up to the refugio Borelli. On Wednesday morning we started early. After 5 pitches below point Gamba we decided to return. Our packs were too heavy – and very important: in my opinion it was far too warm for us. At 6 AM I already started climbing in a t-shirt. It was really warm and the south face of the aiguille noire has ca. 47 pitches. We carried 6 liters of water with us for the day and the next day of climbing and I expected that to be not enough in this warmth! I also underestimated the difficulties, we climbed the first pitches on a running belay technique in mountainboots and with the heavy packs. The IV+ sections were pretty tough in this way and we were too slow for a proper ascent of the Noire. I still think this was a wise decision.

I met a French guy that day, we started together, chatted a bit and I think he and his partner were as twice as fast as we were….

So we rappelled down, a bit disappointed, but still a few days left with good weather!

We had a coffee in the Val Veny and decided to drive to the Ecrins. “Theoretically” it was possible to climb a big route at the end of the week. At that moment we didn’t feel fit enough. In 3 hours we drove to Ailefroide, pitched the tent, had a nice BBQ with beer and wine and went to bed.

Next morning we took it really easy with a good breakfast and a lot of coffee. We had to decide between climbing multipitches in the valley or the pilier sud on the south face of the Barre des Ecrins (4102 m). Not so difficult decision….

In the afternoon we went up to the bivouac at the noir glacier. We made some proper food and discussed the route for the next morning. The lower part as seen from the moraine isn’t that easy to define from below. We used the camptocamp topo (www.camptocamp.org).

 

Barre des Ecrins south face

 

walking up the glacier noir moraine

 

cozy bivy spot, I spent there a night as well with Peter a month ago for the Pic sans Nom route aurore nucleaire...

 Next morning we started at 4 AM: we went down the moraine, walked over the glacier and at the end up the steep snowfield of the col des avalanches. Below a steep serac it was possible to cross the bergschrund and reach the foot of the wall. It was 5.30h when we started climbing a ramp diagonally to the right. After two pitches I found a very very old sling on two pitons. We were happy, not because we could clip that shit but to be sure that we are on route… that happend a lot that day because the route finding together with the often very rotten rock is the main problem!

 

old sling and pegs

 

having fun in the lower part of the face 

 

First sunlight on the face!

traverse to the left, not too difficult

 

some chimneys... made me thinking of the Fissure in Ailefroide...

After four pitches we were on the less steeper lower part of the route. We moved together on short rope and on running belay. Sun came up, first touching the upper part of the wall and suddenly we felt the sun. Great moment. It get warm and on different locations we found water that day to refill our water bottles. Much easier than on Noire south ridge!

 

easy grounds below the ridge 

 on the red tower!

 

Andreas, chilling...

The rock on the red tower was really good, nice climbing! We reached the foot of the bastion at 11.45h. The first pitch (a traverse to the right) is maybe “the crux pitch”. Rated about 5b/5c in very rotten and steep rock. When I started climbing that pitch I was a bit nervous. I mean – we never could climb back from this point in the wall. There was only this way up. No possibility to call for help (no gsm network)… and rotten rock. But after a few metres I switched into a kind of “ice climbing mode”. Full concentration, very careful movements, no sudden things, carefully testing footholds and crimpers… looking for good places of protection and after 10 metres I spotted a fixed friend – I am on route - great. After another 5 metres I spotted a peg belay about 15 metres higher up – this is where I have to go- really exciting!!!

 

The Bastion!

 

Belay at the foot of the bastion

 

first pitch on the bastion 

looking down after the first pitch on the bastion...

reaching the upper part of the bastion

 

Andreas makes a pitch up and right. After that I traversed back to the left to reach te very top of the bastion...

I think I climbed that pitch very quick (15 minutes or so) without any problem. Andreas followed and took the lead on the pitch. That pitch was very nice as well! After that the next 4 pitches were all in rock of bad quality – loose, very loose. But you get used to it. And for me, this is part of alpine climbing. It is a skill to move quick and safe on these grounds. I really like this!

Below the top section of the Bastion – we climbed for 1 pitch to the far right. One short steep section (5b) but in good rock! Than 1 pitch up! And a third pitch moves almost horizontally left back to the ridge only to reach the top of the bastion and the final part of the ridge. It took as 4,5 hours to climb the whole bastion.

We switched to running belay techniques again. We avoided a few tours on the left (in the flank of the ridge). It is still 3,5 hours of climbing and we reached the summit at 17.45h.

 

High on the south-east ridge, shadow of the wall below on the glacier noir....

 

almost on the summit... magic moment! 

on top!

Weather was still good, it was very quite on the summit and the views were amazing. We enjoyed 30 minutes, and started our descent to the breche de lory. With one rappel we were on the glacier and at 22.00h we reached the refuge des ecrins.

 

top of the Ecrin from the abseilstation.... 

 on the glacier...

 

beautiful sunset

Great adventure! We had beer and 1,5 liter of water. It was not possible to get any food because the kitchen was closed and everybody was already asleep. Completly different than on the Promontoire hut last year. After climbing the Pierre Alain on the south face of the Meije we arrived on that hut at 23.00h and guardien Freddy served a perfect meal for us. We went to bed and had breakfast at 7 AM.

We walked down and finished our day with salad, pasta and cippolata bbq – and a few beers of cours. Andreas also  went up the moraine again to pick up our bivy gear! I was really happy that he decided to walk up!!!

 

Next morning at the hut - the Ecrins in the background... 


more info over the route at:
http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/53824/fr/barre-des-ecrins-pilier-s