Two weeks ago I have been to Adelboden in the Bernese Alps. Together
with my parents, my brother and my wife I spent a fantastic week with really
good family time, some hiking, good food and good weather and autumn sun.
After walking to the Engstligenalp on Monday, we went up by
cable car to have coffee. It was 12.00h when I left the family for a short
hike. I thought of walking to the Ammertenspitz or even to the top of the
Wildstrubel (3243m). But for the latter one I thought I would need more time
and alone on the glacier would be too dangerous.
I had climbed the Wildstrubel in the 90’s as part of the
beginners alpine programme of the mountaineering school Adelboden. Back then I
remember the glacier we had to cross.
But this time somehow I wanted to have at least a closer
look at the glacier. So intuitively I decided to walk up the lower part of the
Wildstrubel. I had light crampons and an aluminium ice axe with me. I quickly
gained altitude. After 800m I crossed a flat glacier plateau without relevant
crevasses. I traversed on easy mixed terrain and gained a ridge with sometime
deep snow. The higher I got the better the conditions got.
After 3 hours I reached the summit around 3200m. Beautiful views
to the south (Matterhorn,….) and the south west (Mont Blanc). After 15 minutes
I started my descent and at 16.30h I was back at the top of the cable car
station. After another hour I was back at our chalet just in time to enjoy
dinner with the family. Great!
at 9.30h the Wildstrubel from the valley
12.00h getting closer... some snow down to 2200m, top on 3243, 1200 altitude meters in 2,5 hours...
in the snow around 2500m,
looking up...
my own track below me
looking up the small glacier plateau, traverse was above this plateau through the rocks to the right...
nice easy mixed scrambling...
looking back, quite some snow
on the summit ridge
looking south with Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Monte Rosa...
After the succes on Mont Blanc south side Andreas joined me
for another week of adventure. The forecast was still very good. I suggested to
go the Mont Blanc south side again: Peuterey Integrale. But first I needed two
more restdays and Andreas had to acclimatize a bit. So we spent two nights at
the Grand Saint Bernard col at 2500m.
On tuesday we went down to Courmayeur and spent a night at
the campground in the Val Veny. It was really hot, 34 degrees in the valley.
Next afternoon we went up to the refugio Borelli. On Wednesday morning we
started early. After 5 pitches below point Gamba we decided to return. Our packs were too heavy – and very
important: in my opinion it was far too warm for us. At 6 AM I already started
climbing in a t-shirt. It was really warm and the south face of the aiguille
noire has ca. 47 pitches. We carried 6 liters of water with us for the
day and the next day of climbing and I expected that to be not enough in this
warmth! I also underestimated the difficulties,
we climbed the first pitches on a running belay technique in mountainboots and
with the heavy packs. The IV+ sections were pretty tough in this way and
we were too slow for a proper ascent of the Noire. I still think this was a
wise decision.
I met a French guy that day, we started together, chatted a
bit and I think he and his partner were as twice as fast as we were….
So we rappelled down, a bit disappointed, but still a few
days left with good weather!
We had a coffee in the Val Veny and decided to drive to the
Ecrins. “Theoretically” it was possible to climb a big route at the end of the
week. At that moment we didn’t feel fit enough. In 3 hours we drove to
Ailefroide, pitched the tent, had a nice BBQ with beer and wine and went to
bed.
Next morning we took it really easy with a good breakfast
and a lot of coffee. We had to decide between climbing multipitches in the
valley or the pilier sud on the south face of the Barre des Ecrins (4102 m).
Not so difficult decision….
In the afternoon we went up to the bivouac at the noir
glacier. We made some proper food and discussed the route for the next morning.
The lower part as seen from the
moraine isn’t that easy to define from below. We used the camptocamp
topo (www.camptocamp.org).
Barre des Ecrins south face
walking up the glacier noir moraine
cozy bivy spot, I spent there a night as well with Peter a month ago for the Pic sans Nom route aurore nucleaire...
Next morning we started at 4 AM: we went down the moraine,
walked over the glacier and at the end up the steep snowfield of the col des
avalanches. Below a steep serac it was possible to cross the bergschrund and
reach the foot of the wall. It was 5.30h when we started climbing a ramp
diagonally to the right. After two pitches I found a very very old sling on two
pitons. We were happy, not because we could clip that shit but to be sure that
we are on route… that happend a lot that day because the route finding together
with the often very rotten rock is the main problem!
old sling and pegs
having fun in the lower part of the face
First sunlight on the face!
traverse to the left, not too difficult
some chimneys... made me thinking of the Fissure in Ailefroide...
After four pitches we were on the less steeper lower part of
the route. We moved together on short rope and on running belay. Sun came up,
first touching the upper part of the wall and suddenly we felt the sun. Great
moment. It get warm and on different locations we found water that day to
refill our water bottles. Much easier than on Noire south ridge!
easy grounds below the ridge
on the red tower!
Andreas, chilling...
The rock on the red tower was really good, nice climbing! We
reached the foot of the bastion at 11.45h. The first pitch (a traverse to the
right) is maybe “the crux pitch”. Rated about 5b/5c in very rotten and steep
rock. When I started climbing that pitch I was a bit nervous. I mean – we never
could climb back from this point in the wall. There was only this way up. No
possibility to call for help (no gsm network)… and rotten rock. But after a few
metres I switched into a kind of “ice climbing mode”. Full concentration, very
careful movements, no sudden things, carefully testing footholds and crimpers…
looking for good places of protection and after 10 metres I spotted a fixed
friend – I am on route - great. After another 5 metres I spotted a peg belay
about 15 metres higher up – this is where I have to go- really exciting!!!
The Bastion!
Belay at the foot of the bastion
first pitch on the bastion
looking down after the first pitch on the bastion...
reaching the upper part of the bastion
Andreas makes a pitch up and right. After that I traversed back to the left to reach te very top of the bastion...
I think I climbed
that pitch very quick (15 minutes or so) without any problem. Andreas followed
and took the lead on the pitch. That pitch was very nice as well! After that
the next 4 pitches were all in rock of bad quality – loose, very loose. But
you get used to it. And for me, this is part of alpine climbing. It is a skill
to move quick and safe on these grounds. I really like this!
Below the top section of the Bastion – we climbed for 1
pitch to the far right. One short steep section (5b) but in good rock! Than 1
pitch up! And a third pitch moves almost horizontally left back to the ridge
only to reach the top of the bastion and the final part of the ridge. It took
as 4,5 hours to climb the whole bastion.
We switched to running belay techniques again. We avoided a
few tours on the left (in the flank of the ridge). It is still 3,5 hours of
climbing and we reached the summit at 17.45h.
High on the south-east ridge, shadow of the wall below on the glacier noir....
almost on the summit... magic moment!
on top!
Weather was still good, it was very quite on the summit and
the views were amazing. We enjoyed 30 minutes, and started our descent to the
breche de lory. With one rappel we were on the glacier and at 22.00h we reached
the refuge des ecrins.
top of the Ecrin from the abseilstation....
on the glacier...
beautiful sunset
Great adventure! We had beer and 1,5 liter of water. It was
not possible to get any food because the kitchen was closed and everybody was
already asleep. Completly different than on the Promontoire hut last year.
After climbing the Pierre Alain on the south face of the Meije we arrived on
that hut at 23.00h and guardien Freddy served a perfect meal for us. We went to
bed and had breakfast at 7 AM.
We walked down and finished our day with salad, pasta and
cippolata bbq – and a few beers of cours. Andreas alsowent up the moraine
again to pick up our bivy gear! I was really happy that he decided to walk
up!!!
Next morning at the hut - the Ecrins in the background...
Jeroen and I had a brilliant trip to the Mont Blanc. For us
it is not uncommon to go to Chamonix for a week and come home with nothing than
dreams and not the big route where we came for. The reasons are various –
altitude, weather, conditions, personal factors like fear or just discomfort of
climbing a big route.
But this time every piece of the puzzle was in the right
place. The weather forecast was at least good enough to make a major plan and
we were eager to climb a bigger route. The Walker on the Grandes Jorasses
wasn’t in condition, but Jeroen had some information about the pilier rouge de
Brouillard. I had read about the south side of Mont Blanc but had no good idea
about the location of the huts, bivouacs, routes and so on….
But with the internet and classic guiding books (Rebuffat,
Damilano and Batoux) we set our mind on the Brouillard pillar. The name in
itself is part of the history of alpinisme. Bonatti climbed there in the late
fifties and on the other side of the col Eccles there is the (in-)famous Freney
pillar with the drama of bad weather and several casualties during the first
attempt in the sixties (also by Bonatti).
We knew that the climbing itself must be great, but the
adventure is more like getting to the pillar. We were not acclimatized and the
climbing is around 4000m… if you want to go to the top of Mont Blanc it’s even
4800m.
From the Batoux guiding book we had the information that the
Bonatti route on the pilier rouge had bolted belays – that would make the
descent very easy and would make it a perfect high altitude multi pitch alpine
rock climbing route with finishing in the Eccles bivouac for a second night.
After that we would try to climb the famous Innominata ridge to the very top of
the Mont Blanc.
To be honest – until two weeks ago I wasn’t really aware of
the existence of the Innominata ridge at all – lack of basic knowledge of the
anatomy of the Mont Blanc massive – I apologize.
On Saturday 13th of august we drove down to Switzerland –
and slept on the Grand Saint Bernard. First night at 2500m to get some extra
acclimatization time. Sunday we drove to Courmayer, had a big pizza and went to
the Val Veny – starting the 1000m climb to the Monzino hut. The guardien Mauro
was really kind and we enjoyed to be on our adventure…
Next morning we startet at 7.00 AM with heavy back packs our
way to the Eccles bivouac – 1300m first on the moraine and later over the upper
Brouillard glacier with enormous seracs and crevasses. The track was good and
after 4,5 hours we were at the bivouac. In the lower shelter is room for 9
people – we went up tot he newer higher shelter for 6 people. We were happy
that both nights we were the only climbers in the upper shelter. With 6 people
in that tin it would be really shitty I think.
Next morning we startet at 6.00 AM. The weather was
different than predicted – some higher clouds and a big thunderstorm cloud
building up in the Aosta valley. After some discussions we decided to give it a
try – but on this altitude it is a bad idea to get into a thunderstorm….
south side of Mont Blanc with the Brouillard on the left and the Innominata in the background
impressive glaciers and rocks
good track on our way to the Eccles biwak
nice biwak
After 10 minutes on the glacier we discovered a fixed rope…
I walked down a bit and looked in an gigantic crevasses. We discussed the
situation. So the idea was to rappel down into that crevasses (8 metres free
hanging) and we guessed that the idea to get back was by prusiking like you
learn in glacier rescue stuff… a bit weired idea- but this was the only way to
pass this crevasses.
After rappeling we went down to the foot of the pillar. We
climbed the steep cone, passed the bergschrund and made a traverse to the right
to get tot he start of the Bonatti route. On a small terrace after pitch 1 we
could easily switch from mountain boots and crampons into the rock climbing
shoes.
Pitch 2 is the crux pitch – 6a. I started climbing when the
first sun light hit the lower part of the pillar. The first part of the crack
is not too difficult but I had to get used to the smooth edges of the crack.
That makes the climbing and the protection more difficult. The last 7 metres to
the belay are vertical and the crack isn’t that easy. I was happy when I
reached the belay.
looking back on the nice crack of pitch 2 (6a)
Jeroen came up as well and pitch 3 was a bit easier but
still demanding (5c). Jeroen did a great job and pitch 3 and 4 were easy, we
really enjoyed. Good holds and flakes. Pitch 5 is the start of second part of
the pillar, 5a, really nice steep start and then easier angled crack to the
right. That belay is shared with the second route on the pillar a bit more to
the right. I continued climbing the quartz band to the left again. This pitch
brought us up to the center of the pillar again.
Jeroen on pitch 3
start of pitch 5
pitch 6
In the meantime the higher clouds got thicker and some lower
clouds were surrounding the pillar. A light wind catched up. After a short
discussion we decided to go down – difficult decision because the two next
pitches (5c) looked really great.
But finally the total package of altitude, remoteness and
unstable weather were the important factors. We rappelled down and within 1
hour we were back on the glacier. The overhanging crevasse was a nice exercise
of prusiking… it took some time but it was ok! Of course the weather went a bit
better but principally we still think it was a wise decision.
At 13.00 PM we were back at the bivouac for some snow
melting action. We checked the weather forecast for the next day – better- less
cloudy, thunderstorms in the evening and the last good day before detoriation
would set in on Thursday.
Next morning we started at 4.00 AM for climbing the
Innominata ridge. We made our way up to the col Eccles. From there we climbed
on the ridge and on the Brouillard side until the foot of the dubble red tower.
From here it was a hard rock section – rated 5b. First climbing left – I
followed the two Austrian teams. They made belay on the left but they were in
doubt about the correct route. To the right I saw an very old sling and a
vertical wall. I thought, well this must be it. It was cold, I had a backpack
and mountain boots and it was still dark. Great adventure – I was a bit in
doubt if I would be able to climb this vertical wall but I was determined as
well.
I clipped and old piton and put the blue cam number 3 half a
meter higher. Good start for the hard part. I rewarmed my hands and took some
time to make a plan. I put my left foot in the crack 20 cm above the blue cam,
I twisted my foot so that the whole leg was locked. With my left hand I found a
pretty good round side hold and I stemmed with my right hand on a minor rock
outcrop. My right foot was searching for a hold, but there was nothing… so I pulled
hard with my left hand and managed to get my body half a meter higher and
suddenly my right foot was high enought to put it into a big crack. A bit
scared, shaky and with very cold hands I somehow put the yellow cam number 2 in
a crack on the right. Yes! After some shaking I pulled myself over the edge of
the wall and found a belay on two pitons. These two pitons and another one high
in the route were the only pitons we found in the whole route – great.
Jeroen came up – and I continued climbing through the hole
to get back to the Brouillard side of the Innominata. Sun came up – great
moment, always, if you are high on a mountain. At that moment we were 3 hours
climbing and had gained only 300metres…
waiting for the first sun light...
yes!
I continued on crampons another nice pitch rated IV to the
start of the upper part of the route. On mixed grounds we climbed a short
vertical wall of snow to get on the very knife edged ridge. Great moment!
We continued the ridge, went through more mixed grounds and
entered the upper couloir. At 4350m we traversed to the left – no stone fall at
all – we were really happy.
knife edged ridge - cool
second part...
The ledge to the left is easy. We then followed the ridge
until it joins the Brouillard ridge, and from there it is still a long way to
the Mont Blanc de Courmayeur. From there you climb down to the col major and up
finally to the summit of Mont Blanc. The summit was already in clouds, it was
cold and strong wind gusts were blowing. From the Brouillard ridge I put my
down jacket. Great. We were on top at 12.00 PM, exactly 8 hours after our start
and also according to the guiding books.
Jeroen traversing the great couloir to the left, - the ledge leading up to the secondary ridge in the background
almost at the ledge...
climbing is straight forward...
the secondary ridge - still not on the Brouillard ridge
really airy sections
and long... with the Brouillard glacier far down
SUMMIT!!!
The descent down the Trois Mont route was interesting – we
had a real white out condition just below the abseils on the col de Mont
Maudit. Jeroen did a great job to find back the track and we continued our
descent without problems – except the exhaustion on altitude. We were really
slow on the climb to the shoulder of the Tacul.
on the shoulder of the Tacul
On 16.00 PM we were at the Cosmique hut, ready for hot tea,
a beer and proper food.
Great trip!!!!
Equipment:
·Only one ice axe – if you are less experienced
in ice, just take a second one with you (light aluminium is enough).
·Two ice screws only (for the whole team).
·We had a full rack of cams (for the Brouillard
pillar), for Innominata a smaller rack including cam 2 and 3 is enough.
