Ecrins - again

After our somewhat rainy days in the Bergell I had one more week left this summer. This week I spent with Andreas. Two years ago we climbed the south face of the Marmolada under very difficult conditions and had a chilly biwak at the cable car station. So we knew from each other how we would react under pressure – for me this is always a major advantage if you go into the mountains.

But first we had to wait for two days – weather was bad in the Alps and we spent two perfect days crack climbing in Ettringen/Germany. We hit it hard and were glad when we got a day off on Monday to travel to France. We arrived in La Berarde around 6 PM and it was still raining… but next day the weather should improve…

Me climbing in the crack high on the south face of the Meije


 
Breakfast in La Berarde - ...

And indeed, we woke up under blue skies and the Ailefroide North face was white… snow down to maybe 2500 metres… cool! We walked to the refuge Chatelleret and climbed on the contrefort du Tete Sud du Replat…. It was good to be in the mountains, we were alone, the sun was shining and in only 90 minutes we climbed “ballet sur une dalle rose”, VI. Nice slabs, some diedres and a cool traverse in pitch 5. We were on top at 5 PM, rappelled down in 30 minutes and were back at the hut at 6.15 PM. Time enough to sort out the gear for tomorrow, drinking beer and having a good diner.

 
The Meije South face on tuesday, snowy.... 

Pic Nord du Cavales...





Rappeling on the contrefort




Pilier Candau and Gandoneon, two routes Andreas and I climbed back in 2012


the contrefort in the last sun

Next morning we started at 7 AM. The approach was pretty long (2.15h) and when we reached the base of the south face of the Pic Nord du Cavales (3364m) it was still pretty cold. We were happy that the first two pitches were easy (IV+ and V+). The third pitch was a traverse for the first 15 metres, I saw a lot of bolts and after I tried to climb the first three metres free, it was clear that we  have to aid that section… unexpected but really cool, I put a 60 cm sling into one of the bolts and stepped into it while pulling up on the quickdraw, with some acrobatic moves I managed it to grab into the next bolt, yes! It’s rated VII/A1, funny section anyway.

approach Pic Nord du Cavales


Andreas in pitch 2

 Me on the aid section


At the next belay we got sun and the climbing got better and better… after two more slab pitches the route got steeper, with some nice diedres, roofs and again some slabs. There are much more bolts than we expected. I guess 3-4 friends (0,4 to 2) are enough. After 13 pitches we reached the summit of this beautiful pyramid at 13.30h. We rappelled down  in 90 minutes and walked back to the hut.

 
the beautiful slabs

 
it is getting steeper

 pitch 8

 
 summit

Next day we took it easy. Breakfast at 7 AM, and within 2,5 hours of hiking we reached the refuge du Promontoire at almost 3100m at the base of the south face of the Meije. I dreamt of going there for years. I had been a lot into the Ecrins, but every time when I had been there conditions were not ok or I had no partner for climbing the Meije. But now, deep inside, I felt very very confident and that together with Andreas I would climb the classic Pierre-Alain on the south face, 900m, 5c/6a. The rock looked beautiful (red, yellow, golden granite)… during our hike to the hut we stopped a few times to study the route and the line of descent. Big undertakings ask for proper preparations.

ehh, topo and our mountain.... it is so big....




whow... good food at 3100m



preparations....

and relaxing...

When we arrived at the hut Nathalie and Freddie were preparing the diner for the 32 people who would stay there for the next night. Most of them were climbing the normal route next day. 4 teams were heading for the direct south face (Pierre Alain). Not to busy but I expected some traffic jam in the ascent and the descent. Freddie did a brilliant briefing before diner and both of them gave excellent tips and tricks for the route.

I already had checked out the rappel to the glacier because we would have to do this in the dark.

Two teams started at 4.30h next morning. We had breakfast at 4.45h and left the hut at 5.45h. We met a French team (father and son) at the rappel. This would not be the last time we had to wait that day. But for me it felt ok, I was sure that we would have enough time and pushing hard was not necessary (good weather forecast and good conditions).

Nathalie and Freddie - merci!




Rappelling into the void next morning...

We started climbing at 7.30h… we belayed for the first four pitches and then we reached the flat area that would lead us to the start of the difficulties. These four pitches were enough to get into contact with the mountain, always solid, sometimes wet but the rock wanted to be climbed, I was sure and I was very happy to be there together with Andreas – today I would climb the Meije south face.

We traveled fast and at 9.00h we were at the start of the difficulties – we had climbed together even in the sections rated IV… we met the other parties there. But everybody was relaxed. We made a left turn in 4 pitches to reach the bottom of the chimney. Try to stay in the red/yellow granite, don’t go too far to the right into the grey rocks. It looks easier but it really brings you off route. To reach the bottom of the cheminee verte there are 3 options, all of them are ok. Kind of a crux is to leave the cheminee after one pitch. The belay is below or on a big rock that is stuck in the cheminee. From there you can climb to the left for 5 metres and you will find a new belay. From there you can  climb on the left edge of the cheminee for 2 pitches to reach the vire a bicyclette (big ledge, but I didn’t saw any bicycles, …). I didn't saw the traverse but instead I stayed climbing in the cheminee to the foot of the 6a section. Anyway, it was very easy to pull on the 4 pegs and slings to get in the easy part of the pitch… so I am not sure if it is such a big problem to stay in the cheminee…

 
pitch 1 in the cheminee verte...

Black hole - below at the small snow field was the escape to the left, too late...

From the vire a bicyclette it is unclear where to climb. The other parties went too far to the right. You should navigate on the big roof above you. To the left of the roof there is the crack line you have to reach. If you are on the vire it is not really obvious. Go up (a bit to the right) and try to climb to the left again. Follow the crack into a first niche, then go around the niche to the right to reach a bigger cave. Above that cave there is a steep crack and there are also pitons to the left. The route continuous not up or the left, but to the right, you have to downclimb a few meters, very airy, there is a piton…. Traverse to the right for maybe 10 metres, than you get into easier ground.

 
On the vire - no bicycles at all

Me climbing in the crack high on the south face of the Meije



Climbing down to the right to reach easier grounds...

We switched into another mode and traveled again together: up through the former snowfield and then left into the breche. From there it is 5 more pitches to the summit.

We reached the summit at 16.00h. Really cool views to the Barre des Ecrins in the south east and to La Grave in the north. Happy!!!

 

close to the top!!!


Thirsty men....

 summit of the Grand Pic de La Meije...

But we knew that we were halfway. We had to go down on the Promontoire arête. We started our descent at 16.30h. We had to wait a lot a lot a lot. The two French parties in front of us had to abseil first but the way they organized there rappel of two pair of ropes and 4 climbers wasn’t that efficient.

The first rappel is on the northwest side of the summit, just 5 metres down. The first rappel is straight forward. The next rappel is diagonal down to the north for 20 metres (belay with one bolt). The next belay was difficult to find, 35 metres on the north side of the ridge. The last three rappels to the top of the glacier Carree was pretty straightforward.


A place to remember...

"Mary of La Meije” was hauled up by the Vénéon Valley guides in 1996. This very understated madonna, crafted from wood, is the fourth to be anchored at this summit. The first, erected in 1936. was hit by lightning and replaced in 1958 by a madonna made from Oisans granite, which was no more weatherproof. In 1988, a small wooden icon was placed at the top of La Meije in tribute to the village priest of La Grave. So there are currently two Virgins at the summit." source: http://millet-expedition-project.com/en/past-expeditions/discovering-the-finest-madonnas-in-the-alps


 
The first abseil on the north west side of the summit... far below the cable car station of La Grave

We put on our crampons and walked on the top side of the glacier into the top left corner. With one more 60 metre abseil we reached the rock again (we only took one very light ice axe with us).

 
Andreas rappeling on the glacier Carree

On a big ledge we traversed to the biwak site, climbed up again a few metres and reached the pas du Chat. Don’t take the rappel at the biwak site but traverse to the left until you can look into the Breche to the left of the Meije (between Meije and Rateau).  A short 20 metre abseil brings you to some good rappel ankers (bolted). The first abseil is 25 metres, than 3 rappels of 50 metres. After that you descent for maybe 200 metres to find another abseil station on the right side (looking down). Three more abseils and you can try to reach the far left of the grand couloir, don’t go too far down the couloir because the rock gots really loose. With all the waiting it got dark and our journey a bit more interesting ;-) I managed to find the final belay station… happy!

 
beautiful sunset...

golden granite....

We rappelled once more and some cairns showed us the way down. Everybody got a bit tired at this time. The whole descent we travelled with the two French guys from Aix…. I think we dit a good job together. We walked and climbed down the normal route, in between some more short abseils and at 23.30h we were back at the hut!!!

 
searching...

beer and good food, at 12.00h in the refuge...

Freddie welcomed us with some beers and food. We were happy with the soup and bread. Instead of only serving this he came up with pasta and a dessert as well!! For the two days up there Freddie felt a bit like a father for us! Thanks so much. I think the day on the Meije was one of my most memorable days in the mountains ever….

We had another beer, Freddie went to sleep and we stayed another hour. At 1.30h we went to bed. At 7 AM I enjoyed the coffee again. We walked down to La Berarde had coffee with Bernd and Lotte and made a big omelette… yeah!


ham and eggs...

 Guys, if you like alpine climbing and you are looking for a long route in excellent rock and a lot of sun I think this is the place to be!!! Go climb that face and enjoy!!! 

I tried to describe the route and give some hints above!

good info on the internetsite of the Promontoire hut http://www.refugedupromontoire.com/informations/contact/