Sunday, September 14, 2014

Ettringen

yesterday I have been to Ettringen again. Together with Andreas we climbed a lot of routes at the Lonnenloch.... Glück Auf!, Klimax, Sternschnuppe, J.P.,... I tried to climb Natural Living but had to retreat half way because there was so much sand and dirt in the cracks....
We climbed Fleury Mirogis (UIAA VII-) and I toproped Le Mitard (VIII-/VIII). Nice project for the next visit!



Briancon and Orpierre

After my rehab in Ettringen we went to the area of Briancon in the southern Alps... we spent there 10 days of hiking, cycling and climbing... good for my recovery.

We climbed in Reotier, Le Cala, Rocher Baron and other nice spots!

 First stop was in La Grave, we spotted the Meije North Face with some fresh snow, to the left there is the direct route through the North Face, one of my objects for july...

Because the weather in the Alps kept unstable we went further south to Orpierre... they released a new guide book last year with some spectacular routes to the far right... really cool yellow/golden limestone. long routes about 35 metres up to 6c+, great.



After 6 days climbing in Orpierre on our way home we drove to Cogne/Aosta. The place where I already spent weeks ice climbing in winter. I wanted to show Marieke the valley and I also was really curious about how it would be to see all the water in summer what is ice in winter... and it was great. It was warm, it was green, it was quite! I showed Marieke all the routes includig detailed descriptions about the belays somewhere in the water now...
 checking out Stella Artice...

 Tuborg and Coyote...
 some serious river crossing next day... so much water...
and the famous Lillaz Gully

Ettringen

I planned to spent july in the alps with some friends, doing some major routes there. But mid june I got some serious back trouble. I had to cancel all my alpine climbing projects for the summer '14. Too bad.
By the end of july it went better - slowly and I decided to work on my rehab in Ettringen... it's only a 2 hours drive, nice campground, short walks to the rocks and I could work on my aid climbing and crack climbing skills... better than sitting at home, working...

I spent 8 days in Ettringen with Mike and Bernd. The weather was a bit unstable but ok. We climbed at the sector Grosse Wand but also in Kottenheim. I managed to climb Lauras Stern (UIAA V) on my own gear... that was great. We climbed different cracks up to UIAA VI and I spent two days alone on the cracks working on my aid skills. That was really nice!

After that I went back home for 2 days.

 di-fissure, UIAA VI
 bloody saturday - nice crack at Finsterlay

"Wildsau" - a nice off width crack