Marmolada South face

From a climbers point of view spring was quite disappointing. My december/januari ice climbing season was good and I hoped to climb some bigger routes in march or april. But the weather was too bad for big stuff. So overall the last months were good training months and we did some good sportclimbing - but nothing special.

On 30th of june (last week) Andreas and I climbed the south face of the Queen of the Dolomites – the Marmolada (3000m plus). We already planned to climb the face last year but due to bad weather we finally went to the Dauphine. But we promised to come back for a second attempt. We had one week for climbing in the Dolomites – but as always – behind your desk at home you make the wildest plans for climbing as much as possible in one week. We both learned the last years that big routes need focus and patience. Weather and conditions does not always allow to climb when you like it. We arrived on Saturday in Canazei – and at our arrival it was immediately clear that climbing the south face would be a real adventure. There was still a lot of snow everywhere.


 After 10 hours driving - red wine in Canazei

After a call with the Falier hut we decided to walk up on Sunday. The guardian thought that the lower part of the route could be wet but the upper part should be o.k. The weather forecast predicted a window on Monday, Tuesday would be worse. From behind our desks we had planned to do some warm up climbs in the area – Andreas had climbed a lot in the Dolomites, but for me it was the first visit. Since the weather forecast was only good for one day we skipped the “starters” to immediately eat the “main course”.

On our way to Malga Ciapela we saw the Marmolada glacier on the north side of the mountain – loads of snow. We decided to take one pair of crampons and one light ice axe with us for the descent. Next day we already needed the crampons and axe to get to the base of the climb – wise decision though.


ready to climb...

After a nice hike of about 2 hours we reached the Falier hut and we had a marvellous view on the south face and particular on our route “Don Quichote”. This route is about 900m, 25 pitches or so and up to 6a/6a+. Under normal conditions you can climb the face on this route in about 6-10 hours. 

 first view on the face

 

Don Quichote

The guardian told us not to start too early, so we left the hut at 6.00h. But even to get to the base of the route took 1,5 hours (instead of 1 hour) because the amount of snow. And again: from behind our desks we thought to climb the first pitches on a running belay but as we started the first pitch we recognized that the route was still very wet – no running belay – even in the easy pitches we had to climb carefully… whatever – we were on route and that was exactly what we wanted to do -  climbing on a massive face- being alone- under difficult conditions. In june/july the days are long and it was great to be on the mountain with another good climber, together we would make it to the summit – no doubts.

 

start at 6.00 at the Falier hut


you never walk alone...

  snow at the base

 

the first chimneys...

Andreas is leading

We made progress- chimneys- slabs- diedres, sometimes dry often wet rock made the climbing adventurous. We were half way at 13.00, there was a lot of snow on the ledge, we plowed up to the start of the second part – the pillar.

 

snow at the ledge half way 

the upper pillar...


Andreas leading...

a short steep roof with big holds -  but even there it was a bit wet...

Actually the weather wasn’t that good as predicted- clouds all day and for the final pitches even some snow and hail were part of this alpine game. Because of the crampons, the ice axe, bivy bag… the backpack was pretty big and heavy. So actually the lead climbing part was a kind of a reward because the seconding climber had to work hard as the donkeys down in the valley. We cursed the backpack and called her “Ushi”. Ushi wanted to go down all day long but we would go up. During a short snow-storm I reached the summit – 30cm of snow on top – crawling up through the snow to find a big rock making the final belay…. It was 20.30h. Andreas came up – we were happy.

 

alpine climbing how it goes

 

brilliant deep views on the very top of the pillar... a lot of snow en route

 Andreas exiting on the top... is it winter of summer climbing? nobody knows....

After a short search I found the rappel down to the glacier on the north side. With a second rappel we were on the flat part of the glacier and we walked down to the middle station of the Marmolada cable car. The station was closed but we found a “cozy” spot in the snowplow-parking lot. It was cold and our clothes were wet – but the spirits were still high. So we installed our biwak on some wood and went into the bivy bag…. Shivering all night, at 4.30 I got up for some walking and jumping to get it warm again. It was a beautiful sunrise of what would later be the start of a nice and warm summer day (weather forecasts are bullshit….). I was astonished – Andreas slept quite a while. I could’nt understand how he dit that, but anyway. The cable car station got open at 8.30 and the dubble shot espressos were great!!!


cold and wet...

 

hotel snowplow :-)

next morning- great to feel the sun and minutes later the espresso...

and some real food....

FACTS Don Quichote: classic moderate rock climb, 25 pitches, 6a/6a+, Falier hut as start for the routes on the south face, we used 60m dubble rope, a good rack of friends (0,1 tot 3), slings are really useful. Conditions can only improve this summer. The problem is that you can't see the wet parts of the route from down the hut (chimney in the upper part of the first part and the last pitches just below the summit). They are faced to the west and do not get a lot of sun!

A must have is the Giordani climbing guide of the Marmolda south face.