Berner Oberland - Swiss Alps

In the week of 15th july I visited the Blümlisalp area in the Bernese Alps. Long long time ago I have been up there but never climbed a mountain of that range (bad weather). I know the area from the ice climbing stuff in winter, down in Kandersteg there are a few dozens of ice routes in all grades.
Reason for going to this area in summer was that my climbing partner Nando and 3 of his mates wanted to train for the summer course of the Swiss guiding school. All of them are preparing for this summer course, if they succeed they are aspirant guides, which is a major step in the guiding school. The Bluemlisalp range offers a great selection of easier rated climbs (AD and D) which are typically guiding areas. So a great opportunity for them for training and for me an excellent option to learn a lot about rope and rescue techniques.
The weather forecast was predicted good for the whole week, which is quite uncommon for this area. On monday we went up to the Fründenhut at around 2500m. A 1000m climb above the Oeschinensee, really nice views.

Next day we started at 5 in the morning for climbing the west ridge of the Fründenhorn. We walked up to the Fründenjoch, and from that col you turn left, first on easy ground (but very loose) up to the first tower. The first tower has to be climbed by a traverse on the south side, still not really diffcult but still really loose.


in the col, sunrise in the Wallis (looking south)

The second tower has to be climbed directly on the edge. there are a few bolts and some slings. It is a bit overhanging and rated 5b. Nice climbing.


overview of the west ridge above the col




looking south with Bietschhorn

on the westridge, just below the crux


Then the clim continues sometimes scrambling sometimes climbing and some snow fields have to be passed. We were on top at 10.30h. Great views to the east (Eiger, Mönch, Jungfrau, Aletschhorn) and to the south (Weissmies, Weisshorn, Matterhorn....).

After a good break we started our descent, great views down to the Oeschinensee. Two hours later we were back at the hut.


Descent, in the background the lake about 1300m lower...

Next morning we started at 5 again for climbing the Galletgrat of the Doldenhorn. It was cloudy (the weather forecast predicted a nice and sunny day). At 6 it started raining heavily and at 7.30 at around 3000m we decided to turn around. We had just passed a water drained slab with our crampons, so we had to find a different way down... good exercise though. At 9.30 we were back at the hut, completely wet and cold..... it turned out that the forecast for the whole week was too bad for climbing in the higher mountains. So we decided to walk down again....