Quest for
ice without snow and rain
Weather forecast
for the Alps was pretty bad – when Jeroen and I met last tuesday. Only light
of hope: the Dolomites. But where to go? Finally we booked a small appartement
in Ahornach (Val Pusteria) and went there without having any info about
conditions.
The first
day we climbed an easy route (couloir Kofler, WI3+) close to the road. We used
rest of the day to find out more about other ice routes. In the afternoon we
climbed a short but nice mixed route at the Eisklettergarten Angerer in Rein.
Next morning we went to the Tristenbach (WI4+) and after a cappuccino we went
to the Gelltaler Fälle. Really nice climbing (two pitches WI4+ and WI5).
Thanks to
mountain guide Veit Bertagnolli we went to the pretty cool route “Eiskaffee”. The route had
been climbed for the last time 10 years ago. Now, the first pitch had enough
ice to climb on but on the crux no ice for protection. I had to climb 4-5
metres above my last piece (short ice screw) but it was really nice climbing.
The final pitch WI4+ was well chopped but looong (70 metres or so).
We stayed
at the Roanerhof with Annelies and Hans. We had a great time with them and I
definitely can recommend staying their (https://www.roanerhof.com/de).
Jeroen on the first pitch of couloir Koffler, nice climbing, no traces, makes even the easy routes more demanding, we climbed the route in 3 pitches, there are two bolted belays (one after 50m en the other after 60m climbing if you climb it in two pitches, we made two ice belays and used the bolted belays for the abseils).
Mixed climbing at the Jausestation Angerer... most of the ice climbers we saw during our trip in the Rein valley were climbing here, almost nobody else on the "real" routes...
Tristenbach, nice blue ice with cauliflower formations, cool climbing, these are the upper two pitches, the pitch below is easy...
Jeroen on the last pitch of the Tristenbach...
Gellntaler Eisfall, pitch 1
Eiskaffee, seen from the Franziskus parking in the valley...
Arriving at the bottom of the route...
ehhmmm, impressive pitch 1...
Jeroen seconding first pitch...
... and starting pitch 2...
ehhh, 3rd pitch was looooonnnnngggggg..... 70 metres or so...
