We have been to Switzerland for a few days. We climbed the route “Mülloch” (M5, 7 pitches) on the north face of the Stockhorn in the Bernese Alps. Two days later we climbed the “Gälliwand” (5a, 9 pitches) on the north face of the Gällihorn. Both summits are located in the Bernese Alps and are easily accessible by cable cars, although for the Gällihorn we decided to stay in de Winteregg hut to have enough time for climbing. Both routes are nice to climb in winter with crampons and ice axes. Bring a rack of camalots and we doubled number 0.5, 0.75 and 1. Next day we went to Kandersteg for climbing the three pitches of "Lurking Fear"(WI 3).
Topos:
- Mülloch https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/1100371/fr/stockhorn-bern-voie-mulloch
- http://slack-line.ch/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Topo_Stockhorn-1.pdf
- https://www.rebolting.ch/de/topos/routen/gaellihorn-2018.php
- https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/248710/fr/cascades-de-glace-adelboden-bonderfalle-lurking-fear
"Mülloch"
Preparation in the sun, before descending to the left to the start of the routes in the north face
first pitch, not steep, but at times compact rock, Jeroen did a really cool lead...
higher up on the first pitch, it all goes up to the far right, belay just before the rocky spur...
We have no picture of the two M5-pitches. Both pitches are steep, have some bolts and are good protectable with cams.
exit of pitch 5
pitch 6 is a very compact lime stone rock band traversing to the right, we made belay there, than it's another pitch to the summit ridge.
pitch 7 close to the summit
beautiful views to Eiger, Blümlisalp and Balmhorn...
Gällihorn
Winteregg hut, we walked up from Kandersteg in 2 hours
Start of pitch 3
3 pitches, 50min approach, very nice climbing...
