climbing blog from Martin Ophey, remember: the real world is out there! And not behind your smartphone or computer...
Sunday, November 17, 2019
Ettringen in november
Nice but cold and wet weekend in Ettringen with Jeroen. We climbed at Schiffsbug at next day in Zeckenloch. Mordor is currently closed due the potential breading activity of bubo bubo...
Tuesday, September 3, 2019
Ecrins 2019
Andreas and I spent one week in the Ecrins, we planned to climb the SSE-ridge of Pic Gaspard but did not get any further than the start of the route. Nevertheless we had a nice week together, climbing some easy alpine stuff, sport climbing and dreaming of bigger routes...
on our way to the hut
approach to the start of the Point Emma traverse integrale
interesting and long approach from the hut to the base of the SSE ridge of Pic Gaspard
SSE ridge...
on our way to the hut
approach to the start of the Point Emma traverse integrale
on the traverse, nice views on the south face of La Meije, which we climbed a few years ago...
SSE ridge...
Friday, August 30, 2019
Monday, August 5, 2019
Annot and Orco
In july Marieke and I went to Annot (France) and to Valle del Orco (Italy) to see some nice cracks for climbing.
Wednesday, March 27, 2019
Ettringen Episode 1 2019
Last weekend we started our crack season in Ettringen, so happy to be back with Marieke and Mike. New sectors and routes for us at the Steingarten, Schatzinsel and Greenhorn.
Absolut must climb the finger and hand crack on the far left at Schatzinsel, Faustrecht at Greenhorn and some other pretty cool hand cracks....
Absolut must climb the finger and hand crack on the far left at Schatzinsel, Faustrecht at Greenhorn and some other pretty cool hand cracks....
Monday, February 25, 2019
Chamonix
Last alpine
ice trip is three years ago when Jeroen and I climbed the north face of Les
Courtes. Since then either the weather had been unstable or conditions had been
insufficient or both… With the hot summers and dry autumns it is getting more
difficult to find routes in condition and worth climbing it.
Last week Jeroen
and I were lucky enough to recover the old alpine winter feeling although we
could not finish our route (Mallory-Porter on the north face of Aig. Du Midi).
We set up our tent at the plan des aiguilles and next morning startet at 6 AM.
At 8 AM we were at the start of the route. The steep first snow gully was
pretty filled with soft snow and after 1 hour we made traverse to the right
where conditions improved a lot. Steep neve brought us to the rocky section
(4b). It was really nice rock climbing for 25 meters or so. We took 4 cams with
us what is absolutely sufficient for this section.
We continued but were faced
with increasing wind that forced us to hide behind rocks… further up it looked
much more severe and we decided to retreat. At the cable car station we got
info that the Midi cable car did not go the whole day because of wind up to
100km/h.
A bit
disappointed but more important to me: revival of the alpine ice feeling, the
winter climbing, camping in the snow, everything worth the trip! As add on we climbed in LeFayet and Servoz. We'll be back.
Servoz
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