Breitwangflue

Karel suggested to climb stairways to the stars on the Breitwangflue. I really wanted to climb Metro, but after checking for some info on that route I was in! At least if Karel would be able to lead on the difficult pitches - and he did! some impressive leads on steep ice, mixed, most of the time intensively covered with very loose snow, Karel lead the hard sections.

We started climbing around 8.30h (after 2 hours walking up from Mitholz) and we were on top of the route around 18.00h. Belays mostly with one bolt or Abalakovs....

here some pictures:




Stairways to the stars - gully to the right of Crack Baby - the ice pitches on top of the route are clearly visible...



 initial gully climbing, looks easy, but mainly loose power shit - difficult to climb and protect



looking down after pitch 1





start of pitch 2, steep and narrow gully...



start of pitch 3, more ice and as add-on "spin drift"...

 belay of pitch 3

 start of pitch 5, dry, and on the freehanging.... Karel did an amazing lead, also the second part of this pitch was real climbing!!



 looking down pitch 5




 pitch 6

 on top!!!!

Cogne

Together with Roeland some nice routes.
First day: Tuborg (WI 5), that was my 6th ascent and Stella Artice (WI 5) on the other side of the valley, my fourth ascent.
Second day: we went to Tradimento (WI 5) in the far back of the Valnontey opposite of Repentance. Very good conditions, much easier than WI5.


 steep pitch on Tuborg!




View on Stella to the left after climbing Tuborg.







Roeland at the belay after the first pitch on Stella, second pitch steep!!!

 Start of second pitch....

Final pitch on Stella...

 Below Tradimento


 Second pitch on Tradimento...



 Roeland leading on the impressive final pitch...



 No hands rest...

 Rappeling final pitch...

Repentance, Monday Money, Flash Estivo and Fiumana di Money