Next morning we went up to Lau Bij, WI 5. I climbed that route three years ago with Roeland. As always we try to be first on route to avoid the danger of falling ice of parties above us. Bernd lead the first pitch and it was my turn on the cool and airy traverse to the right. Conditions were good, good hooks, good holds, and at the exit to the belay there is a prusik rope and a bolt as support for crossing the slab. easy.
After abseiling (45m free hanging abseil, really nice) we went down for the capuccino ritual in Cogne.
Next morning we went up at 3.30h and started walking in at 5.00 AM. Goal was Repentance Super, WI 6 in the Valnontey. This is maybe the most famous route of Cogne and we wanted to be there first. It starts getting light around 6.30 AM.
We started climbing at 7.00 AM. At 7.30 AM the second party arrived. The first pitch was thin in the beginning but cool climbing on the cauliflowers. After 30m I made belay on the far left. Next pitch was with an easy start traversing to the right on a ramp. Crux was a thin pillar of maybe 5m, no protection and really steep. Belay on the right behind the top pillar. The pillar itself was steep, 15m or so, good hooks but still hard climbing! I made belay on the left. Bernd followed and went up the snow couloir for maybe 85 metres, next belay on the right. Last pitch to the top and money plateau was really nice climbing, not too difficult.
We abseiled down and were suprised of the traffic on the route. There were more than 10 people climbing. One guy threw down his nomic ice axe. We hauled it up otherwise everybody would get stuck on route... Crazy!
We had a really nice day on Repentance. It was impressive, very steep. And I saw the beared vulture flying around monday money.
We walked down to the bottom of the valley. It was 13.30 PM or so. We decided to have a look at the other routes in the far back of the valley and in the end we climbed Plutone and Misteria/Coupe Money. We finished climbing at 6 PM and walked back to the car. A long day of 15 hours with 3 routes and a tasty finish in the pizzeria of Cogne.
Next day we had a rest day. On our last climbing day we climbed Lau Bij twice and finished the day with climbing the 6 pitches of the Lillaz Gully in 1.15h....
Bernd on the steep pillar of the third pitch
hard work...
Bernd leading the last pitch to exit on the money plateau...
nice views and warm sun...
rappelling down again...
while rappelling down I made this shot from to the top pillar.... steep!
looking back with Repentance Super on the left and Monday Money on the right. Monday Money is currently closed because of nesting activity of the bearded vulture. Really big bird!!! I saw him flying... here is a picture I found on the www. Impressive, so please respect the closure of Flash Estivo, Fiumana di Money and Monday Money!
Bernd on the top pitch of Fallo di Plutone
